Yesterday was a big festival officially commemoriating the Aztec conversion to Christianity. But to us it seemed to be about celebrating Aztec culture, drumming and dancing! There was a small ceremony with a black crucifiction and a moving ceremony in the church involving a skull, lots of incense, chanting, the blowing of a conch shell and other christian icons.
Meanwhile outside it was a party. Over 100 constumed dancers and drummers. It was deafening and exhilarating.
There were many men dressed in skull masks and\or animal heads. Skulls were very prevalent as masks, face paint, on dresses and flags. There were also some costumes with the Virgin of Guadalupe, sometimes with skulls next to her. Spirituality here seems deeply complex.